JayCee wrote on Jul 12^th, 2007, 2:42am:


I'd be interested in knowing how you string those fan pattern squash racquets with just flying clamps.  Where the mains at the head jump all over the place.

I only have flying clamps myself, and I was considering an upgrade to fixed to be able to handle these.

todot62 wrote on Jul 13^th, 2007, 9:19pm:


Good question,  you have to start somewhere, but before I explain how to start the crosses, we have to install the mains, so I can provide you with a step by step installement plan, if you are interested . . .
Just to give you an idea of what it's all about, here are the first steps, getting started :

Method to String in 4 knots with 2 Stringway Flying Clamps :
(1 x Double 9mm + 1 x Triple 18mm.)

Firstly, let's assume that we are going to string the racquet with 2 pieces of string, you will need 1 knot for each end, so that means we will string "with 4 knots".

I measure the string by counting half the number of lengths of the racquet, then I double that piece of string to get the right overall length required. :

> For the mains you need a total of 9.33 lengths, so measure 4.66 x 27 inches then double this = 256 inches (21 feet)

> For the crosses you need a total of 8 lengths, so measure 4 x 27 inches then double this = 216 inches (18 feet)

To start the mains, take the 21' length of string and feed it through the 2 central grommet holes for the mains :

> From bottom (throat end) to top to if there are 6 grommet holes in the throat, or

> From top to bottom if there are 8 grommet holes in the throat.

These strings are #1 Left of center (L.1) and #1 Right of center (R.1)

You then place the Double flying clamp in between the 2 strings L.1 and R.1 on the inside of the frame, opposite the loop where the strings have started (near the throat for 6 holes, or near the head for 8 holes).

Feed through the string immediately to the right of the first string right of center : R.2 and tension this string,
> place the Triple flying clamp just behind the Double clamp at the tensioner end of the string clamping both strings R.1/R.2 (these are the first 2 strings under tension, (but also the L.1 because the triple clamp can block 3 strings at a time),
> feed through the next string to the right (R.3) tension it > then replace the Triple clamp from (L.1) R.1/R.2 to (R.1) R.2/R.3 at the tensioner end of R.3.

Now recuperate the string L.1 and apply the tension to it :
> take the Double clamp (L.1/R.1) and move it to the opposite end of the frame (towards the tensioner) and clamp the same 2 strings (L.1/R.1) just behind the Triple clamp.
>  feed through L.2,  
>  tension and clamp it with the same clamp L.1/L.2,
>  feed through L.3 > tension and clamp L.2/L.3

At this point in time you have the 6 strings 3 left and 3 right of center in place and under tension.

If you have any questions or if you don't understand anything, here's your chance to clarify the situation.

If you are OK with these initial steps, then we can go forward with the next steps, as soon as I have the green light from you, or anyone else who may be interested . . .

I will be back in a day or 2 for the next steps.

Later,
JC.

Quote:


As we progress in the stringing method, I will explain where the problems are, and what we can do to minimize or overcome these problems. Be patient, it won't take us too long to get there.
JC.

todot62 wrote on Jul 17^th, 2007, 10:16pm:


Abandon this method (pressing the weight down). You will damage the machine (I speak from experience). You will not find it easy getting replacement parts if you do.

JayCee wrote on Jul 17^th, 2007, 11:32am:

It looks like you do not tension R1 except during the initial double pull of R1+R2

Wouldn't it have been easier to use a starting clamp at R1 instead of the flying clamp on L1/R1.  Then double pull R2+R1 and continue to R3, then when you come back to R1 you can tension R1, remove starting clamp, apply flying clamp.

Personally, I start by starting clamp at L2, double pull L2+L1, clamp,  R1, cl, R2, cl, R3, cl, R4, cl, then pull L2, cl, L3, cl, L4, cl, L5, cl, then alternate R and L.
(and when space permits using 2 clamps to emulate a triple clamp)

Hi Guys,
Here's my thoughts on using floating as opposed to fixed clamps.
I have been following the thread quite closely and am quite surprised that no one has pointed out the obvious fact that there is not one top end machine that uses floating clamps.
Babolat,technifibre and all other companies that lead the way in stringing machine technology have gone away from floating clamps because of the ease of use of fixed clamps and the obvious downside ( double pulls) of floating clamps.

David was put down in an earlier thread for saying that one doesn't find floating clamps in a tournament stringing room. I would agree and the double pull alone is a good enough reason ,to not find one, without taking into account the ease of use of a fixed clamp in a time orientated situation.

Just my thoughts.
All the best,
Richard

Quote:


Hi Richard,
It's wonderful to hear your thoughts and of course I agree with you, but it may be more appropriate that you and David start a new topic on "using floating as opposed to fixed clamps"

I would be happy to discuss on what you and David have both stated and eventually compare notes and experiences, advantages and disadvantages, etc. etc. There is a time and place for everything, the only problem here is that you are both "off topic" on this thread.

If you are really following it closely, here, for memory, is the initial question that I am answering to the best of my ability :

"I am a home stringer and have just purchased a used LaserFibre MC200TT with floating clamps.  I want to upgrade to fixed clamps but wanted to see how well these floating clamps work first because it will cost quite a bit to upgrade.  So that made me think of a question about clamps that might help me and others.  Who makes the best floating clamps, and why?  Is there a good trick or technique to use with floating clamps to make them easier to use?  
Thanks,
Tod"

I do not mind constructive criticism, but let's just try to keep the context the interest of upgrading a SW (LF) stringer with flying clamps to the same machine with fixed clamps. The 2nd part of the question is about the best way to use the flying clamps.

I really don't have to prove the point to you or anyone else, but I believe that my explanations can be quite useful for a large number of stringers who are regularly using flying clamps, but have never even seen a Babolat Star 5, Sensor or TF 7000, let alone string on one.

Some food for thoughts :
Double pulls are one of the main inconveniences with the use of flying clamps, their negative effect can be minimized, and it only happens a maximum of 4 times in a string job.

As John Gugel has noted, back slipping on a swivel clamp is an inconvenience, and it happens even on today's Pro machines (Babolat and TF), unfortunately it happens almost every time you clamp the string, this also can be minimized and compensated for, and a pro stringer can do this efficiently.
(However less experienced stringers in big stores with "super pro-machines" can really make a mess of the string job)  

This problem is far more important on cheaper machines, notably on home-stringer models, there again the cheap flying clamps are usually hopeless, between poor quality swivel or flying clamps, the fixed clamps are probably preferable.

The only criteria really worth retaining is the end result, now that is a vast subject well worth debating and testing to see where the truth lies.

You may well be very surprised by the outcome.

Just my thoughts,
John.

I'm new here. I just bought a pair of Gamma floating clamps that work great and this thread caught my eye.

I have strung my own racquets on a ratchet drop weight stringer for about 7 years. I also like to give the drop arm a small push of about 1 inch to take up tension loss on the adjacent string. JayCee, your point makes no sense. What is the difference between a little push on the arm or moving the weight to a higher tension so that the arm moves about an inch? how would that damage the string?

Moveing the weight sounds foolish because it takes so much time and trouble. It is still not scientific and makes for a little guess work for the tension on the adjacent string. AND you have to move it back and pull tension AGAIN before you clamp the string you are directly pulling. You end up pulling and releasing 2 and 3 times on some strings and not others strings. That can't be good for the string.

Plus, you really think pushing one string down with your thumb to increase tension on a different string is any safer than a 1 or 2 inch push of the arm and letting it settle back on its own?  How is pushing a little on the arm any different than the normal working of the machine if I were stringing at 62 instead of 52? Pushing the string with your thumb is unnatural for the string.

I'm ok with doing my own racquets with floating clamps, because I'm doing it myself. If I was paying somebody for a stringing, there is no way I'd trust them because there are too many ways to screw things up. I would guess that is why pro stringers don't use them.